I love (seriously luuuurv) the Holly Jumpsuit pattern by By Hand London. But the “Playsuit” version is just not playful enough for me. Especially construction wise. Typically anything with a required invisible zipper is not “playful”. The adjectives I would attach to garments with invisible zippers are, “elegant”, “sexy”, and, “fitted”.
So this is a hack where I:
1.Get rid of all the waist darts (I need to move baby) and put in an elastic waist instead.
2.Make the entire front placate a fully functional button up and down. I will be honest with you, unbuttoning this lady every time you need to pee is not fun at all. But I still like it better than the unbuttoning and unzipping combo option. Annoying naked peeing is typically a sacrifice that must be made to the adorable jumpsuit gods.
Warning this is a Eyetrade Handmade Hack, there will be MUCH cheating ;). Let’s get started!
Step 1: Get rid of Waist Darts. Simply by ignoring them. You should have one on the Bodice Front, one on the Bodice Back, and one of the Trouser Back. Just put a big X in them. They are from hence forth gathered ease instead of darts. Keep the side dart because we have boobs and without side darts armholes do weird things.
Step 2: Add extra Seam Allowance to Waist for the elastic band casing (aka tunnel aka hollow channel that holds elastic aka the annoying part when you put a safety pin in your elastic and shimmy it through the CASING). Since the pattern includes 5/8″ Seam Allowance (yes I am American and yes it is really annoying) I added 3/8″ to make it a nice even 1inch channel for our elastic. I did this by adding 3/8″ to the length on the Center Front and Side Seam then just drew a straight line across completely ignoring all that fancy curvature created for pretty dart sewing.
Step 3: Make a Sew On Placate for the Front Trousers. Unless you want to be permanently sewn into these, or your hips are thinner than your waist, we need buttons on the Crotch Line! How do we do this? It’s not hard but it does get a little confusing. Every time I go to do it from memory I do it a little wrong and have to improvise. Now that it is written down we all should be good. Just start by tracing the placate on the Bodice Front. It is included so all you have to do is trace the part with all the notches. There are 4 notches total and you want all 4 of them.
Step 4: Draw the included 5/8″ Seam Allowance on your Front Trouser. It is super easy and super helpful just do it.
Brain Twister: Now you have your CENTER FRONT marked on your placate copy, because it was marked on the original pattern and we are all smart hackers and remember to transfer ALL OF THE MARKINGS or else we will regret it after we start cutting things up. You also have your CENTER FRONT marked on your Front Trousers because that is the seam line where you sew and you just drew on your Seam Allowance. These two lines need to be sewn together in the future and then buttons and button holes will be sewn directly on that center stitch line. Weird? A little bit. But it works. Now that your brain has been twisted let’s move onto…
Step 5: Cut your Trouser Placate down to size. Lay your Trouser Placate CENTER FRONT on top of your Front Trouser CENTER FRONT. Line up the bottom with the Hip Notch. It’s not labeled the, “Hip Notch”, but there a notch right around where the hip is so I’m calling it. Cut off the excess Placate that goes above the Waist Seam Allowance so the lengths line up nicely.
Step 5: Add Seam Allowance to Trouser Placate. Add only a 1/4″ to the right side of the placate that is getting sewn directly to the pants. That is because there is already 3/8″ on the right of the CENTER FRONT of the placate and we need our CENTER FRONTS to get sewn together. 3/8″+1/4″= 5/8″. So adding 1/4″ gives you normal Seam Allowance to your CENTER FRONT. Add the normal 5/8″ Seam Allowance to the bottom. No need to add anything to the other two sides. They are already included.
That’s it! Your pattern has been hacked!!!!!!
-Sew the Trouser Placate to the Trouser Front first then interface on Wrong Side of the CENTER FRONT. Sew TO not THROUGH the Hip Notch. Yes it is still weird but it really does work.
-Fold and iron bottom Seam Allowance up on Trouser Placate at Hip Notch.
-Sew Front and Back Trouser together.
-Sew Front and Back Bodice together. Gather Front Bodice Waist and Back Bodice Waist as needed to match bottoms. It shouldn’t need much. The fit will be created by the elastic not the gathering. For this part you just need to match them up.
– Sew Bodice and Trousers together at 1 inch Seam Allowance.
-Follow the Pattern instructions for creating placate. Once placate is overlapped I like to top stitch an X at the bottom. But any top stitching will do.
– Once Placate is complete, sew the ends of the Waist Seam Allowance together creating a channel for elastic leaving an opening. Pull your elastic as tight as is comfortable and cute then zigzag both ends to Seam Allowance.
-It is easier to use bias tape to finish your neck and arm holes opposed to figuring out how to use the facing with all this gathering. But you do you!
-Hem and wear to your playful hearts delight!
The reason mine doesn’t make the best example because I am alteration crazy. I do not sew any pattern until I have cut it up to my imagination’s content. Everything needs pockets, be a little too big, and all darts have to be moved down about 2inches. It is weird to know that my bust point is literally two inches lower then industry standard :l.